What factors have influenced the shrinkage of denim clothing?
2023-1-27
Shrinkage of garments is a common phenomenon in clothing products, especially in denim garments with cotton as the main material. In the process of garment inspection, inspectors must correctly measure the size of garments and carry out shrinkage rate test, so as to effectively control the quality of products before shipment.
The main link affecting the size of denim garments
Industrial mass production of denim clothing, unlike tailor-made, its ready-to-wear size requirements are quite standardized and strict. It is necessary to produce the garment pattern for the production of samples. The reasonable and correct size of the garment pattern directly affects the accuracy of the garment size. What links will affect the ready-to-wear size of denim clothing?
1. Fabric shrinkage affects garment size
As we know, after weaving, cutting, making and other processes after processing denim clothing, generally according to the market or customer needs, the use of special water mill, stone mill, snowflake, rinsing, sand washing, pickling and other processing. In order to achieve denim fabric desizing, anti-shrinkage, soft, hair and clothing special feel and visual effects. Different ways of washing water will directly or indirectly affect the size of garments, so the shrinkage rate of fabrics is the main factor affecting the size of garments. This makes us in the production of patterns, must fully consider the shrinkage rate of fabric.
2. Weaving direction affects garment size
Under the requirements of the same fabric, the same style and the same garment size, if the fabric shrinkage rate is large when the weaving direction of a certain part or whole part is different, and we use the same fabric shrinkage rate to calculate, it will bring certain deviation to the garment size, affect the shape of the garment, and it is difficult to meet the requirements of customers. Now, let me give you two examples.
Example 1: Let's look at a denim vest made of the same fabric, size, and wash requirements. One is cut in a regular straight pattern and the other in a twill pattern. Due to the drape of the fabric twill state, the transverse circumference of the measurement size becomes smaller, and the length direction becomes longer. Therefore, when the choice of cloth pattern is different, the size of paper pattern should consider the influence of the weaving direction of different fabrics under the condition of considering the normal shrinkage rate of fabrics.
Example 2: When the vertical shrinkage of the fabric is 3% and the transverse shrinkage of the fabric is 10%, the mid-waist denim skirt will have a straight pattern at the waist and a straight weave, which is opposite to the direction of the bulk weave. The waist is in the transverse weaving direction of the fabric, and the water shrinkage is increased according to the 10% shrinkage rate of the transverse weaving; Waist pattern cloth is vertical pattern, that is, according to the vertical weaving 3% shrinkage rate to increase the shrinkage. Then these two different lengths will have a certain difficulty in sewing, but also affect the size and effect of the garment.
3. The thickness of stitching and folding affects the size of the garment
Testing the shrinkage rate of denim fabric is usually carried out on a flat denim fabric. When the thickness of some seam edges or hem parts increases, the thickness of these thickened seam edges and hem parts cannot be uniform with its shrinkage rate, which will affect the effect and size of garments. Take a look at the following two examples.
Example 1: Because the method of ring hem is adopted at the back pocket edge of jeans, the thickness of the three layers of fabric at the pocket edge is not consistent. When washing water, the uniform shrinkage rate of the pocket mouth is less than the transverse shrinkage rate of the fabric, resulting in the phenomenon that the bag mouth does not fit, which affects the effect of the garment and the size of the bag mouth.
Example 2: Because this denim pants adopts the method of binding and curling at the hem, the thickness of the five layers of fabric at the hem is linear, and the uniform shrinkage rate of the hem is less than the transverse shrinkage rate of the fabric during water washing, which causes the phenomenon of unconformability and affects the size of the hem of the garment.
4. Other processes affect the size of garments
In the production process of denim clothing, in addition to the shrinkage rate of the fabric itself, fabric yarn direction, seam and hem thickness, it will also be affected by different technological standards such as labbing, cutting, small ironing, sewing, sewing, finishing after washing, which will have a certain accumulation and deformation on the size of clothing and clothing size and processing quality. In order to ensure the accuracy of clothing size, pattern size in addition to adding fabric shrinkage, but also according to these factors to adjust the corresponding addition or reduction, adjustment amount is through many plate measurement of experience, experienced platemaking technicians have their own experience data, and these experience data and instability, lack of theoretical basis.
Denim fabric shrinkage is the main factor
Denim fabric in addition to cotton, pure silk and elastic (spandex), ramie cotton, polyester cotton, rayon cotton; In the weaving process, in addition to twill, there are plain, ground velvet, slub yarn, jacquard and so on; In terms of thickness, it can be divided into 4.5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13.5, 14.5, etc.
Due to the different raw materials, weaving technology, fabric specifications, yarn thickness and density of denim fabrics, as well as the moisture and heat properties of the fabric fibers themselves, shrinkage effects will occur before and after the production of garments, which will affect the size and processing quality of garments. In fact, the main causes of denim fabric shrinkage are natural shrinkage, thermal shrinkage, water shrinkage (shrinkage) and so on.
1. Factors of natural shrinkage
Natural shrinkage refers to the shrinkage of fabric from the factory to the use of the phenomenon. In the weaving and processing process of denim fabrics, the fibers are subjected to a certain degree of mechanical external force, which makes the fibers, yarns and fabrics stretch, leaving potential strain, as well as the types of fabric fibers, weaving technology, storage conditions and time, will produce a certain amount of accumulation deformation, affecting the degree of natural shrinkage of the fabric. The natural shrinkage of some denim fabrics may also be negative, which brings certain difficulties to the control of denim pattern size.
2. Factors of thermal shrinkage
The thermal shrinkage of denim fabric mainly refers to the shrinkage of denim fabric in the process of production and ironing. Due to the thermoplasticity of denim fabric fiber and the drawing performance of fabric, the shrinkage phenomenon will occur when the temperature is too high in the ironing process, which affects the size of garments.
3, water shrinkage (shrinkage) factors
After absorbing water, the fiber of denim fabric will produce anisotropic expansion. The bending degree of warp and wefting yarns will increase, the fabric will become thicker and the size will shorten, which is the main reason for the water-absorbing shrinkage of the fabric. This shrinkage is also called shrinkage. Generally speaking, the better the hygroscopic property of the fabric, the greater the shrinkage rate of the fabric itself, and the smaller it is. Ordinary denim will have 2% to 3% horizontal shrinkage, while elastic denim shrinkage can reach more than 10%.